A Day of Firsts on Scafell

I had thought a lot of Lakes winter was almost all gone following the thaw through early last week, I was really surprised and highly motivated after seeing Rock+Run post photos of Moss Ghyll, Scafell on the Saturday! I had a day off on Tuesday so formed a plan for a one day hit round to Wasdale.

John leading up Steep Ghyll Direct V,5

On the 11th feb John and I headed up to wasdale head ready for an early start to Scafell the following morning! We had decided on a route and waited to see how things were looking up there, after a brief thaw on Sunday. The snow level was down to about 300m with a couple of inches of fresh powder atop of surviving neve. The approach was faster than I remember, last time was slogging up to climb Central Buttress in scorching sunshine! No sunshine this time, nicely overcast, cloud just above the summits and a really still wind made for pretty pleasant conditions.

We first headed up Steep Ghyll direct V, 5, John put in a sterling effort on the lead, with the sloping rock strata making edges for crampons almost none existent. This meant John had to throw some shapes to make progress up this steep chimney!

Me leading the traverse pitch

We soloed up an easier section of Steep Ghyll before I lead a traverse cutting left across the buttress to the main feature of our chosen routes, Slingsby's Chimney. There was quite a bit of powder on the route, meaning protection was hard won after much digging and the uncertainty as to the solidity of each step lead for quite a spicy pitch.
 

Me looking up to Slingsby's Chimney

 We had a right battle with Slingsby's Chimney, causing us some frustration. Powder in the back of the chimney made for poor placements and awkward positions restricted available foot placements. I got super pumped, completely locked my left arm for what seemed like an age, unable to get to my harness to place any gear, desperately searching for a good hook with my right axe, nothing! I got the disco leg, but could not throw any moves to progress up the chimney. Deep breaths, desperately trying to relax, I tried to move up but then my hooks became unstable, the right one ripped, I managed to hold the slip, purely by my shoulders wedging into the chimney, I tried to reverse the moves back to the belay. The blood in my forearms were now full of lactic acid, my hands ended up uncurling from my axes, and I took the short fall on my gear! My first winter fall!

 I didn't like the failure, and have always climbed with the rule that 'you can not fall in winter' and that is what I tell people I climb with in winter. I revelled in the challenge, we were only 7 metres from the easier ground leading to the summit, I tried once more, but again got stuck in a similar position, this time reversing the moves, defeated.

John trying to find an alternative route

 John attempted an alternative finish, traversing up and to the left, making delicate moves across some blank slabs with marginal hooks, but again could not find a way through a further section of steeper ground to the top, so returned to me at the belay. From there we retreated, making a long abseil back down into Steep Ghyll and descended off the mountain. My first winter retreat!

  On this day the Lakes winter was definitely not over and still provided us with a serious challenge on one of the many quality mountain crags in the area. It was a day of firsts for myself, and key milestones within my climbing were crossed. I am only positive about this experience and believe it will help me to grow as a climber. I am now looking forward to heading back up to Scotland on sunday for the following week on my Winter Mountain Leader Training.