Friday 26 April 2013

Motivation at a high on moorland grit.

After an unbelievable winter, climbing routes I couldn't have imagined back in November. Everything just seemed to fall into place allowing me to spend nearly six weeks exploring the Scottish Highlands. Winter is well and truly over now, and my attention has turned to spending as much time on rock as I can fit in.

One man and his pads

My motivation is soaring after a confidence boosting winter realising what I can achieve in climbing. It all started with writing a list of goals, routes that I aspire to climb this year and this blog. The increase in my motivation has meant I am trying to structure specific training for climbing, something I have attempted in the past but never followed through with over a period of time. I have nailing the fingerboard over the past few weeks and putting the time in is already showing in my climbing.
Healaugh Crag, Swaledale
I've managed to fit in several bouldering sessions around work over the past week, rekindling the love of subtle movement required with gritstone bouldering where even slight changes in body position can be the difference between success and failure on a problem.

Matt on Extremities, Slipstones
I headed out in the sunshine to Healaugh Crag in Swaledale and back over to Slipstones. Similar crags with square shaped buttresses running along the edge of the moor. Two quality evenings in the sunshine, aided by a cool breeze which provided good friction once the sun began to set.

Matt on Agra Direct, Slipstones


Agra Buttress, Slipstones
Then next couple days were a complete contrast, whilst visiting Kyle in Burnley, we took a punt with the weather and headed to the Bridestones, a top the moors. The heavy grey clouds threatened above, the winds grew, blowing bouldering mats away and making delicate problems hard going. Spots of rain were clear on our chalked up hands as we watched the rain approaching. It blew over and we were in the clear, as the winds kept the rock dry and we ticked classic problems.

Chink in the Armour, Bridestones
The rock is quite fragile and sandy in places as we battled to keep contact with the rock on slopey aretes, comforted by the flat grassy landings and pads below. The problems were quality, though care was needed to prevent any further erosion or damage to the gritstone.

My training appeared to already be paying off, climbing a number of problems in quick succession that would have normally taken a whole session to complete one. If only there was a way to train my skin to be tougher, as three split tips are repairing ready for a five day trip to Wales next week.

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