Monday 8 April 2013

A relection on a Winter Cuillin Ridge Traverse


Now a few days have passed since completing the ridge, writing my blog and working for a few days. I’m sure I’m still recovering mentally and physically, although I managed to fit in a fingerboard session this morning. I have had the chance for it to all sink in, realise what I have achieved and reflect on the whole experience.

I had never even thought about the Cuillins in winter, even spending around 30 days in the mountains this winter, Skye had never even crossed my mind. Why not? The early season was spent in the Northern Corries and later on the fine ice of Ben Nevis. I was so unsure about a ridge traverse making the drive from Torridon to Skye, nervous but exciting chat about even the possibility of a traverse, could it be done? After a little research and reading Mike Lates of Skye Guides top tips, I thought it was definitely too much and unachievable for us. There was no reason why though, we’d spent a lot of time in the mountains, were feeling fit and had climbed harder routes this winter; it must have been an underpinning intimidation of the challenge. The many variables that had to fall into place were huge compared to a regular Scottish winter day. The weather, the snow, our speed, route finding and bivi spots, all had to come together to even give us a chance at an attempt

It was my first trip to Skye, first time on the Cuillins, the unfamiliarity of these complex mountains. The variables all came together for our traverse, the stable weather and good snow being the main aspects. The snow was patchy, with areas of soft windslab, dispersed between good nee, which definitely settled nerves. Once on the ridge we moved quickly, but having nothing to compare this too kept a doubt in the back of my mind. Throughout the second day, I definitely had a feeling that we were going to do it, going to complete a winter traverse. This was after completing the TD gap, the final difficulty on the ridge. The final ridge and climb to the summit of Gars-bheinn was a mixture of elation and relief. This route and ridge had been the greatest challenge mentally and physically that I have faced in the mountains. It is understandable why such settled conditions are required, the weather is the last thing to be worrying about when negotiating the complex terrain, problem solving of abseils and route finding, piece by piece fitting the sections of ridge together like a thousand piece jigsaw, the challenge seems huge to begin with. The constant concentration required mentally drained me, and walking towards Glen Brittle I was like a robot. On the ridge there could be no slips, no trips and 100% concentrating on every step, looking out for each other, roped and moving together, no margin for error. 

I have learnt a lot about myself, to be more positive in light of big routes and plans, breaking these challenges down into sections and pieces without focusing on the overall picture. I cannot wait to head back to Skye this summer for another ridge traverse and to climb on the huge buttresses of pristine gabbro and basalt. 

I believe Geoff Cohen sums it up as he describes his first view of the ridge in Cold Climbs as ‘breath-taking, impossible to describe save by likening it to the perfection of dreams.’ To anybody considering a trip to Skye, plan it, you won’t regret it.  


No comments:

Post a Comment