Solving puzzles at Shepherds Crag.

     I often think of climbing as a puzzle, a problem that requires brain power to work out how to climb the sequence and create the correct body positions to make progress up the route, all the while wondering what do I do next? This is what draws me to on-sight traditional climbing, where every route is a different unique experience mentally as well as physically. There are no rehearsals like sport climbing or bouldering, where time can be taken to work sections or individual moves. A completely different mindset is required to dig deep and work out the puzzle before the lactic acid becomes to much, or is it the mind that fails before the arms. 

     Jon and I were driving up to the Lakes for the day opting for Shepherds Crag, Borrowdale to seek shelter and dry rock, now that the cooler temperatures and Autumn weather are almost guaranteeing numb fingers on the mountain crags. The short walk in is always a bonus as well. He asked if there were any routes I particularly wanted to get on; I’d already had a flick through the guidebook and replied: ‘Black Icicle, Brown Crag Grooves and maybe have a look at The Bludgeon.’ Jon calmly answered that he’d been keen to follow me up some E1s for a day, meanwhile I was slightly nervous of the day ahead, having not climbed many routes in the last couple months. 

Jon following up Pitch 1 of Brown Crag Grooves

     We walked along to the far end of the crag wondering where everyone was hiding, not a single person at probably the most popular crag in the Lakes on a sunday morning. We started off on Brown Crag Grooves, on which I found good climbing, quite fingery from the off and slightly bold with a couple of crux sections in the first pitch. It certainly kept me thinking anyway. Jon finished up the easier but slightly mossy second pitch, we grabbed our gear and headed round towards North Buttress, past the swarms of people on Brown Slabs, seems like everyone had remembered where the crag was. After a couple of longer single pitch routes on North Buttress neither of us had climbed before, Evel Kineivel and Crunchy Frog, both containing really good moves and positions. After Jon’s next route on Fisher’s Folly Buttress he reminded me that we were getting close, we’d working our way back along the crag all day, Chamonix Buttress and The Bludgeon were next. I thought we’d give it a go, see what happens ‘ey. 

Jon leading Kransic Crack Direct HVS 5a

     Jon lead the first pitch which felt surprising bold, and I was feeling pretty tired making quite  awkward moves through the block towards the top, heading up towards the oak trees. Looking above to what lay ahead, the description of the lower moves didn’t quite make sense. I climbed where I interpreted the description, heading out left onto a bold rib leading upwards towards the pinnacle under the roof, thinking the crack above was to be the crux. Pleasant moves and solid gear lead to a niche to the side of the pinnacle with the overhanging roof moving out above me. place a couple of solid runners and began to think of what to do next, this was to be the start of my problems. I had underestimated this part of the route, thinking the difficulties lay above and the moves at this point would be fine, I was so wrong, the crack between the pinnacle and roof was around 6 inches, with featureless rock on either side. I somehow needed to get on top of this pinnacle. I was getting frustrated with the puzzle, trying different positions, not quite being able to get my feet where i wanted them and all the while hunting for something better for my hands. There was nothing, I had to just accept that, I needed to make it work. Both my arms and brain were tiring. I tried several methods, but couldn’t commit to them, no faith that they would work and unsure of what was to come and whether I could reverse it. I’d made the move, it had worked, I was now reaching reaching around both sides of the narrower top as my body now moved around the front of it, I had to think fast. One leg swung around the side and into the wide crack, I had just mounted the pinnacle and earned myself a no handed rest. I then shouted down to Jon: ‘What the f**k am I supposed to do now!’ The tanks were running empty and I stuffed another cam into the crack by my face. The crack above was narrower than I expected and I’d used that size cam lower down. I was safe here, I needed to chill and regather myself. 

Moving around the front of the pinnacle on The Bludgeon

     The crack above was completely parallel, nothing to layback off, and I am rubbish at jamming. I reached to what looked like a sloper, just out of reach. What to do here, I now had to unlock the top section of the puzzle. I shimmied slightly up the pinnacle, the sloper was a good flatty, big enough for two hands. The key! I pulled and stood a top the pinnacle, hands moved right to positive flakey edges, I reached what looked like a good jug, but it was too far. My fingers were tiring, I was grasping at holds, technique was long gone, though none of the pitch had been very graceful. Feet up slightly and I reached the jug, ‘right, I can’t blow it now’ I thought. I pulled through larger holds and thankfully the angle eased taking the pressure of my arms. The whole sequence there can’t have been longer than 30 seconds. I gave a little shout of ‘Come on’ at the top, which is quite unlike me, and I’m not sure if it was relief or wanting the route a lot that produced it, probably a combination of the two.

Mounted the pinnacle wondering what to do now? The Bludgeon

     It is experiences like the one above that are the reason I trad climb. To put myself in these situations and have the belief I can do it, testing myself physically and mentally. There were points under that roof that I wanted Jon to take me tight on the rope, the route pushing to defeat me, I was quite frustrated by that point. Determination and stubbornness  are pretty good attributes to working out the puzzles unlocking the route.

Alone on the moors at Brown Beck Crags

I was inspired. A couple of days ago I had a cracking afternoon visiting a new crag, getting off the beaten track and finding some great little problems. My exploration head was on, and the weather was a lot better for the grit, to say it was the beginning of October anyway. I was keen to sample some more of the hidden gems across Yorkshire. Brown Beck Crags is located across the moor beyond Slipstones, and is a bit of a trek to say the least. I was on my own, but determined and motivated to make the hike in after finding out the landings were pretty reasonable as there was no spotter for me. The guidebook reckoned about a 45 minute approach, which is about right with a couple of pads strapped to my back. 

Slipstones with its Autumn coat on.

I headed off up the track, keeping my head down trying not to look at the inviting blocs of Slipstones with its autumnal coat on. There were problems I wanted to check out at Slipstones, but today they could wait, I was on a mission. I passed the crag and crossed a natural ford above a ravine, a marched across the edge of the moor through varying depths of heather, bracken and bilberry bushes. I dropped beneath the ridge, which was a bad idea. This was just getting ridiculous, there was still no sign of a crag anywhere, so I checked my watch 35 minutes. The guidebook mentioned a solitary pine tree from which the crags were visible, I could see it, but it didn’t seem to be getting any closer as I battled through the undergrowth. I eventually made it to the tree, spot on the 45 minute estimate. The crag looked beauty.

Brown Beck Crags

Brown Beck is very similar to Slipstones, sharing the angular blocky shape with apparently smooth walls and stunning aretes. After sussing out the crag with the guidebook, and bypassing a few of the micro routes, it would be a rewarding trip with a rope, I found a slanting buttress with several problems to warm up on. The rock was surprisingly clean, taking no drainage and makes the most of any sun going. None of that today though, a chilly breeze and overcast sky made for some good conditions. The edges were good, the footholds just lacked that bit of traffic that gets rid of every grain of grit, so felt a little precarious at times on smears. 

Lower moves on Next of Kin f6B+

Moving onto the upper arete - Next of Kin

The crag has a very solitary feel to it and rightly so as you can’t see any buildings from the crag and there is no mobile reception. Perfect for just enjoying the rock and the climbing. There are some really good problems, walls split with the odd break and positive crimps in between, and some stunning aretes all culminating in the stereotypical sloped mantleshelf top out. Some of the problems were quite highball in nature but the landings good, however glimpsing the word ‘Snap’ on the mat below in the corner of my eye, made sure i was switched on for those top outs. I never pushed it too hard but the crag has some great problems, and is perfect if you ever want to get away from it all and just climb.

Smiley Dog Arete f6B - tricky moves to mantle onto the wide break

I apologise for the poor image quality, they're stills from videos i took.

Clint Crags: Exploring the wild grit.

Having grown up close to Brimham Rocks, gritstone was really the only rock I knew early in my climbing career, from scrambling around, starting to boulder and eventually learning to lead, all was learnt on God’s own rock. Since widening my climbing into the mountains and sea cliffs, climbing on a wider variety of rock types and styles and moving away from gritstone areas I have felt this connection growing weaker over time. Each time I revisited familiar areas I couldn’t quite climb as fluid or produce the right positions and failed to climb problems I had climbed a couple of years previous. 

Matt on the Arete

Now summer has passed, the air is becoming cooler the grit guidebook has reappeared at the top of the pile, flicking through for inspiration, and theres plenty of it. I’ve always loved visiting new crags and the new grit guide is so visual providing a never ending list of problems to try. Surrounding the outstanding crag of Slipstones, a number of smaller crags lie on the nearby moors similar in nature allowing top quality problems to be found just off the radar for those willing to hunt. 

Clint Crags is found beneath Masham Moor overlooking both Leighton and Roundhill Reservoirs. A solitary setting, you are almost guaranteed to be the only climbers at the crag, contrasting with the industrial feel of 100 year old dams in proximity. The crag is compact, with brilliant landings and a bit of scritty rock which is expected at less traveled destinations. A brief warm up on a few problems and getting completely shut down on a couple more that had incredibly tricky starting moves, which meant I lost motivation and couldn’t work the other moves. I moved across the block and found a good line up the arete on the right hand side, with a positive starting layback hold. 

The 'Long Lob'

Lobbing for the pocket

The problem suited me, requiring a long reach between good the start hold and slopey pocket whilst holding the barn door swing. On first appearance the sequence looked easy, but the problem wasn’t giving in that easy, maybe it did warrant its f7a grade. I tried and tried and tried. I seemed to be doing and failing on the same move over and over, putting it down to just not catching the top pocket right, without loosing the swing of the barn door. I’m always one for impatience between problems and attempts, never resting enough or thinking in depth about the sequence I have just tried and how I could change it. 

Jug top

Matching the pocket.

I forced myself to have a break, the first of the afternoon, fifth problem in and after about ten attempts on this one. Shoes off, water out and just chill enjoying the view. Next attempt, launch up for the pocket, latch it, flag my foot to hold the swing and quick hand up to match the slot. Its done, sort the feet, and move up two shelves to a rare jug on the sloped top out. It certainly was the Long Lob, and a cracking problem. This visit has really rekindled the spark that was going out. I love the subtle movements and changes that can unlock the problem, and am now looking forward to the rapidly approaching grit season.

Pinnacle Ridge, Ropes and Meeting new people: A winning combination!

With the autumnal weather moving in, Adam and I headed over to the Lakes on an optimistic forecast, hoping for an overcast day free of rain. Having completed my MIA training a few weeks back, I am more focused than ever to introduce people into climbing and the mountains. We picked Sam, Josh and Rebecca in Ambleside then onwards to Patterdale. Pinnacle Ridge on St. Sunday Crag was our objective. I was the only member of the group to have climbed the ridge before, one of the best scrambles in the Lakes provides great positions on climbing as the ridge narrows and a traverse of the pinnacles leads to the summit slopes. Leading the way on the steep approach, gave enough time to great to know a bit about our new companions before we contoured the hill to the base of the ridge. 

Josh and Rebecca: just chilling!

As we harnessed up Sam jinxed us by putting his waterproof and subsequently the rain came as we geared up. I led up with Rebecca and Josh following on to the base of the ridge, leaving Sam in Adam’s capably hands. After explaining the use of spikes, belays and the ropework, I headed off up the first sections of the ridge. Keeping our ascent fluid we weaved our way up through the blocky ridge, making the climb as direct as possible. Rebecca and Josh climbed really well, following my directions, as we spotted Adam and Sam on the lower sections. The selected belays were really important to keep the scramble flowing, using the appropriate belay for the ground covered as I showed why I had chosen them. 

Adam and Sam on the lower sections

The upper sections of the ridge are guarded by steeper walls and a corner in a bay. We climbed cracks and the corner as a short pitch of roughly 10m to access the pinnacles above. Josh and Rebecca followed with ease, and their previous climbing experience was now transferring into boots and a mountain environment. We traversed across the pinnacles and climbed down the slab leading to the final buttress. The rain had ceased on the lower sections and the lack of breeze meant we were all glad to strip the waterproofs at the top.

Sam descending the slab after the pinnacles

Students: always got their hands in their pockets!

We headed to the summit of St. Sunday Crag and descended down to a breezy Grisedale Tarn. It had been a while since any of us had been on a full mountain day in the Lakes so we climbed the zig zags up the Southern slopes of Dollywagon Pike. We passed a group of mountain bikers and were keen to escape the Helvellyn highway and began our descent of the East Ridge of Nethermost Pike. The initial steep section of the ridge soon eased as we dropped into Nethermost Cove looking up steep slopes towards Striding Edge. A pleasant walk along Grisedale followed, after a quick scout of Eagle Crag, one to head back to in the future. New partnerships formed, the team are really eager to learn and progress their mountain and climbing knowledge, which is perfect for my and their development.

The team heading down into Grisedale; St. Sunday Crag in the background.

Off the beaten trad in the Lakes: Scafell and Goat Crag

Weekends here, cars packed; tent and ropes. To the mountains. We were after shade, more so, my ginger skin was after shade. The weather was looking top, lots of sun and dry mountain crags. A quick escape from work and steady drive to the Lakes followed as people flocked to the mountains. We walked in, camping by Sampson Stones, Great Moss, and I was itching to get on the crags the following day.

Scafell's East Buttress, what a piece of rock!

What we thought was an relatively early start, turned out to be not so early, as we spotted several teams on Scafell's East Buttress as we approached Mickledore at 9am. We moved to the shade of Scafell crag and the popular route of Botterills Slab on the left of the crag. The climbing was superb, smaller holds than I was expecting and quite sustained I reckon, but never desperate. Just really enjoyable climbing on a brilliant crag. We made pretty short work of Botterills and headed back for more, selecting the classic Moss Gill Grooves. Another cracking route, and still in the shade. I looked down to the dots walking up the twisting scree towards Mickledore and Scafell Pike, with the sun beating down on them. 4 pitches up Moss Gill Grooves, we were at the top of the crag, and followed the scramble down Broad Stand to retrieve bags.

Me nearing the top of the main pitch of Botterill's Slab

Piers leading off the first pitch of Moss Ghyll Grooves

Mickledore Grooves was next, on the stunning East Buttress of Scafell, as we followed the shade round. Two long pitches ahead, crossing some impressive territory, steep grooves split by a traverse across an impressive slab. This was probably the best VS route I have ever climbed,  rough clean rock, and interesting climbing kept me throwing some moves as I climbed the long 42m top pitch.

Descending back to Great Moss, I couldn't stop looking back at the crag!

The following day was back down in the valley, slogging through the bracken towards Goat Crag, Borrowdale. Facing North-East and suffering from a lot of seepage from vegetation above, the crag takes a while to dry out. It was my first time here, and initially the crag looks really dirty, covered in moss and lichen but on closer inspection the holds and edges are mostly clean. Rock, paper, scissors for first pitch of the classic DDT. Tom won, racked up and set off up the groove following it to its top. I followed, surprised at how good the climbing was, with sustained interest and good gear, to reach a root ledge above. Stepping out from the ledge across the wall, I was able to gain a groove above, which lead across a mossy slab and the top of a cracking route. After a full length abseil to the deck, we headed round to the Hard Rock classis, Praying Mantis.

Tom bridging up the first pitch of DDT

Stepping out from the belay starting Pitch 2 of DDT

The route heads up a crux corner crack before weaving through some impressive territory by a couple of traverses. Tom won the scissors again, and I'm glad he did as I seconded up the pitch. The route is definitely showing more signs of climbers, the polished crack and lack of footholds meant an aggressive approach was needed. The following 2 pitches weaved across steeper ground as I was landed with fourth pitch to the top, picking my way through, following a faint crack which looked just like a drainage line, to gain mossy slabs above. The moss is just superficial, most of the holds are clean, providing really good moves and positions. The crag is definitely higher than it looks on the approach. It just needs a bit more traffic, which isn't helped by its aspect. Next time there's a dry spell its definitely worth checking out.

Tom on the crux crack of Praying Mantis

Hard Rock and Rescues on Cloggy

I had never climbed on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu otherwise known as Cloggy before, but had heard of its aura, it's walls stacked with climbing history, positioned high within the Welsh mountains. I'd seen lots of pictures online, in guides and magazines, you can't fail to notice it's dominance driving into Llanberis. After getting pretty scorched on the cliffs at Gogarth, Piers and I headed back into the mountains and an early night before the slog up the Snowdon path to reach the crag. The crag looked stunning and became even more impressive the closer we got. I was relieved to see the buttresses covered in shade as the sun moved round, no sun burn for me today.

The stunning Clogwyn Du'r Arddu

We skirted round Llyn Du'r Arddu to access the base of the West buttress, our route the classic Great Bow Combination from Hard Rock. From below the buttress looked huge, but broke down into 5 pitches. I set off on the first 45m pitch, climbing a brilliant cracked groove till the cracks end where a few bolder moves up a rib lead to good sized belay ledge. The rock was solid and quite rough, with bomber gear.

Piers arranging gear on Pitch 2

Piers continued up the rib above setting up a belay below the crux traverse to access the slabs above. I stepped up from the stance to place a high first runner then started the traverse along a break with poor feet, which was surprisingly pumpy with little protection in sight. I rocked up onto a ledge at the end of the break, placed a solid wire, and headed up to the belay above.

Now for Piers to second the pitch, who also had our rucksack of shoes and water to just walk off after the route. The traverse was just as bold for Piers to second as there was little gear for me to place on the lead. After the start a step up with small holds and smear enabled the break to be reached. I had a good view of Piers crossing to this point, I was careful not to pull the ropes too tight to pull him off the wall. These moves were pretty tough, and once all other sequences were ruled out Piers committed to the move. But then he was off! I thought he had made the move. The ropes went slack, as he pendulums across onto the wall below out of my view, swiftly followed by the shock as the ropes take the weight. I shouted down to him,  he was ok. Luckily able to climb the few metres of wall to regain the end of the traverse, took a minute and climbed up to me. He had skinned the knuckles and cut his knee, but was keen to continue after a quick tape up.

The end of the traverse on Pitch 3

Piers swiftly dispatched the fourth pitch up a cracked slab to an impressive exposed stance on the edge of the slab. I had noticed climbers across on the Eastern Terrace shouting in our direction as Piers climbed his pitch. As Piers set up his belay, he was talking to someone else, before shouting down to me: 'you're going to love this.'

We chatted about what was going on as I climbed the pitch. Turns out a team were stuck, or were unable to progress further on their route; Longland's Climb, a classic VS with a sting in it's tail, as described in the guide, an intimidating 4c pitch blocking access to the top of the climb. We were unable to reach Yohan and partner from our present position with a gully and a buttress blocking the way. We told Yohan we needed to complete our route then abseil down if we were to provide any assistance.

Looking back down Pitch 3

We completed our route, which was cracking. It had been a while since I'd climbed on the mountain rock of North Wales, and remembered how much I love it. However my mind was now focused on how best to help the stuck climbers. Trying to locate the top of a route from the top of a complex crag full of gullies and pinnacles is a right pain, especially seen as it was my first time at the cliff. Orientating the guidebook photo, to try and match up which way to head proved useful, as did climbers from the other buttress shouting directions to us.

Piers at the stance at the top of Pitch 4

We hunted down a large block to use as an anchor and I carefully started to abseil down the top section of a gully, ropes over my shoulder and paying close attention to where I place my feet, not wanting to dislodge any rocks onto the crag below. I moved down and around a corner shouting to the party beneath me. I located them, some 10m below the pinnacle I was now sat on. They sounded surprised that I was there, I guess it had been about an hour and a half since we first made contact with them. I was lucky that the rope was just long enough to reach down beneath me. I made a belay at my position to back up my abseil rope as Yohan tied into the other ends of my rope. I gave him a tight top rope up this tricky section of the route as his partner belayed him from below. He was so relieved to reach a ledge just below me, the previous few moves had been a battle for him. I kept him on a rope until he had placed 3 solid runners as he moved onto the easier climbing above. He definitely looked pretty shaky and then let on that this was only his fourth outdoor lead! Hats off to him for his enthusiasm but he was definitely out of his depth on this route, and obviously did not no how to sort himself out in this situation.

I carefully climbed back up my ropes to reach Piers at my block belay. After stuffing gear into our bags it was time to make tracks and drive home. Walking out down the path I kept almost tripping over my feet as I was looking back around at the magnificent piece of rock behind me. Matching lines in the guide up with the features on the rock, I just wanted to climb more. I can't wait to go back again!

Cloggy - What a crag!

Dreaming above the sea at Gogarth

I was counting down the days left at work, stoked to see the high pressure hanging around for my days off at the weekend. Back down to Wales again, it was becoming like a second home exploring places I'd never been over the previous couple months. This time though, we bypassed the mountains and headed straight to Holyhead and the sea cliffs at Gogarth. One route on my mind; A Dream of White Horses. I have wanted to do this route for so long, since first picking up a friends North Wales Rock, years before I'd even put a rock shoe on in Wales, let alone climbed at Gogarth.

Me seconding up the first pitch of 'Dream'

Everything had come together, the late evening light meant a quick scope of the crag. I was in total awe of the zawn, looking across to the cliff from the promontory, it looked really steep with few features, an almost blank piece of rock. Walking back to the van for an early night, I had butterfly's in my stomach, I'm pretty sure it was excitement rather than nervousness. Tomorrow I was going to climb Dream!

Piers leading off on the first pitch

We had a reasonably early start hoping to beat the weekend rush in top notch weather, and were the first team to abseil down to the base of the route. Abseiling down the cliff, the sheet of rock was revealing its secrets; it's slabby angle, flakes, cracks and holds covered the wall. We stopped at the right end of a ledge, the incoming tide covering the first few metres of the climb. Piers began on the first pitch, his first time on the sea cliffs, following a crackline of good gear and holds before moving across to the relative comfort of a stance. I followed, getting into the flow of the climbing having only done a few routes on the cliffs myself.

Me leading off on the second pitch

The second pitch followed no distinct features as I traversed directly across the slab, delicately moving between opposing side pulls and thin gear until I reached the main crack line of Wen running the height of the cliff. Without realising I had gained some height and had set up a belay slightly higher up. This wasn't a problem until Piers was about to set off onto the third pitch.

Piers happy to be across the bold start of Pitch 3

Piers cruising the rest of the third pitch

The third pitch followed a diagonal flake up the wall, but from our position the flake was about 4 metres away, meaning Piers had to make a higher traverse line to get back on route. It was a bold few moves, following small holds and poor feet, a sterling effort by Piers, who then cruised the rest of the pitch.
 
One more pitch to go. The long traverse around the curving wall above the arch in the zawn. The holds were positive and gear good as I made progress across the wall. I was concentrating really hard at getting the rope work spot on making sure Piers was protected when he followed the pitch. The climbing was never desperate and the exposure was ace, I managed a few glances down when moving my feet only to be distracted by sea kayakers paddling through the arch directly beneath me. I reached the end of the traverse followed by a short groove to complete the pitch and the Dream.

Me heading off on the traverse of the last pitch

Piers in a sea of rock on the fourth pitch

I was so pleased to have climbed the route after trying to fit it in last year with no luck. This time everything had come together. The climbing is really good, but it is the positions and situation that make it what it is.
After a quick break and a top up of sun cream we retrieved our abseil rope and relocated to the promontory on the front of the zawn, abseiling in Britomartis, another three star HVS, but a route of completely different character.

Piers seconding the first pitch of Britomartis with kayakers looking on

The tide was low as I climbed down from the belay ledge and traversed around the corner to gain access to the steep front face. An initial crack led to a groove surrounded by good holds up the face. The bottom felt desperate and the route felt a very different proposition to 'Dream' as the rock felt very soapy, I was forever chalking up my hands. The higher I got the less desperate the climbing which was good news for my arms as I reached a small stance above. Piers had an audience of sea kayakers who watched, took photos and were probably wondering what we were up to. I was glad to hear Piers was pumped as well once we squeezed onto our hanging belay. Another traverse and a small groove lead to the top and the end of another top route.

Squashed on the belay ledge of Britomartis

What a day, the heat was definitely getting to me now as we headed back to the van. Ice creams in Holyhead and back to the mountains.

Stunning day at the sea cliffs