I was inspired. A couple of days ago I had a cracking afternoon visiting a new crag, getting off the beaten track and finding some great little problems. My exploration head was on, and the weather was a lot better for the grit, to say it was the beginning of October anyway. I was keen to sample some more of the hidden gems across Yorkshire. Brown Beck Crags is located across the moor beyond Slipstones, and is a bit of a trek to say the least. I was on my own, but determined and motivated to make the hike in after finding out the landings were pretty reasonable as there was no spotter for me. The guidebook reckoned about a 45 minute approach, which is about right with a couple of pads strapped to my back.
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| Slipstones with its Autumn coat on. |
I headed off up the track, keeping my head down trying not to look at the inviting blocs of Slipstones with its autumnal coat on. There were problems I wanted to check out at Slipstones, but today they could wait, I was on a mission. I passed the crag and crossed a natural ford above a ravine, a marched across the edge of the moor through varying depths of heather, bracken and bilberry bushes. I dropped beneath the ridge, which was a bad idea. This was just getting ridiculous, there was still no sign of a crag anywhere, so I checked my watch 35 minutes. The guidebook mentioned a solitary pine tree from which the crags were visible, I could see it, but it didn’t seem to be getting any closer as I battled through the undergrowth. I eventually made it to the tree, spot on the 45 minute estimate. The crag looked beauty.
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| Brown Beck Crags |
Brown Beck is very similar to Slipstones, sharing the angular blocky shape with apparently smooth walls and stunning aretes. After sussing out the crag with the guidebook, and bypassing a few of the micro routes, it would be a rewarding trip with a rope, I found a slanting buttress with several problems to warm up on. The rock was surprisingly clean, taking no drainage and makes the most of any sun going. None of that today though, a chilly breeze and overcast sky made for some good conditions. The edges were good, the footholds just lacked that bit of traffic that gets rid of every grain of grit, so felt a little precarious at times on smears.
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| Lower moves on Next of Kin f6B+ |
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| Moving onto the upper arete - Next of Kin |
The crag has a very solitary feel to it and rightly so as you can’t see any buildings from the crag and there is no mobile reception. Perfect for just enjoying the rock and the climbing. There are some really good problems, walls split with the odd break and positive crimps in between, and some stunning aretes all culminating in the stereotypical sloped mantleshelf top out. Some of the problems were quite highball in nature but the landings good, however glimpsing the word ‘Snap’ on the mat below in the corner of my eye, made sure i was switched on for those top outs. I never pushed it too hard but the crag has some great problems, and is perfect if you ever want to get away from it all and just climb.
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| Smiley Dog Arete f6B - tricky moves to mantle onto the wide break |
I apologise for the poor image quality, they're stills from videos i took.
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