Clint Crags: Exploring the wild grit.

Having grown up close to Brimham Rocks, gritstone was really the only rock I knew early in my climbing career, from scrambling around, starting to boulder and eventually learning to lead, all was learnt on God’s own rock. Since widening my climbing into the mountains and sea cliffs, climbing on a wider variety of rock types and styles and moving away from gritstone areas I have felt this connection growing weaker over time. Each time I revisited familiar areas I couldn’t quite climb as fluid or produce the right positions and failed to climb problems I had climbed a couple of years previous. 

Matt on the Arete

Now summer has passed, the air is becoming cooler the grit guidebook has reappeared at the top of the pile, flicking through for inspiration, and theres plenty of it. I’ve always loved visiting new crags and the new grit guide is so visual providing a never ending list of problems to try. Surrounding the outstanding crag of Slipstones, a number of smaller crags lie on the nearby moors similar in nature allowing top quality problems to be found just off the radar for those willing to hunt. 

Clint Crags is found beneath Masham Moor overlooking both Leighton and Roundhill Reservoirs. A solitary setting, you are almost guaranteed to be the only climbers at the crag, contrasting with the industrial feel of 100 year old dams in proximity. The crag is compact, with brilliant landings and a bit of scritty rock which is expected at less traveled destinations. A brief warm up on a few problems and getting completely shut down on a couple more that had incredibly tricky starting moves, which meant I lost motivation and couldn’t work the other moves. I moved across the block and found a good line up the arete on the right hand side, with a positive starting layback hold. 

The 'Long Lob'

Lobbing for the pocket

The problem suited me, requiring a long reach between good the start hold and slopey pocket whilst holding the barn door swing. On first appearance the sequence looked easy, but the problem wasn’t giving in that easy, maybe it did warrant its f7a grade. I tried and tried and tried. I seemed to be doing and failing on the same move over and over, putting it down to just not catching the top pocket right, without loosing the swing of the barn door. I’m always one for impatience between problems and attempts, never resting enough or thinking in depth about the sequence I have just tried and how I could change it. 

Jug top

Matching the pocket.

I forced myself to have a break, the first of the afternoon, fifth problem in and after about ten attempts on this one. Shoes off, water out and just chill enjoying the view. Next attempt, launch up for the pocket, latch it, flag my foot to hold the swing and quick hand up to match the slot. Its done, sort the feet, and move up two shelves to a rare jug on the sloped top out. It certainly was the Long Lob, and a cracking problem. This visit has really rekindled the spark that was going out. I love the subtle movements and changes that can unlock the problem, and am now looking forward to the rapidly approaching grit season.