Mountains, slate and sea, just December in North Wales

     At the moment my Scottish winter plans seem to be going everywhere but Scotland at the moment. The recent warm weather meant a major thaw of any snow North of the border, and with a week off meant that winter mountaineering was off the drawing board. We decided to head down to North Wales, to make the most of the huge variety of crags on offer. After a rain the previous day, we headed to the quick drying slate quarries near Llanberis. I’ve done quite a few routes in different areas of the quarries, but the recent Llanberis Slate guidebook has endless routes in newly developed areas.

Piers nearing the top of Equinox

The Sidings of Australia, Llanberis slate

     We started in the popular roadside Bus Stop Quarry, which provided a good introduction to slate for Adam and Piers. There is a good mixture of trad and newer sport routes coupled with a good grade range to please all. The wind was gusting, and the rock was cold to the touch, with numb fingers being the order of the day. After a few routes we headed deeper into the quarries, to the upper sections of Australia in search of shelter. We climbed till the sun was setting and it was becoming to chilly on the digits, it is December after all.

4th Pitch of Gambit Climb, Clogwyn y Ddysgl

Enjoying mountain cragging in Deember

     I was a bit apprehensive before setting of the next day, after planning to head high into Upper Cwm Glas, with Gambit climb on Clogwyn y Ddysgl. At the docs a couple weeks, I was told I had tendinitis of the patella in both knees. Just what I need before a busy winter. They were both strapped up pretty good and the poles were out from the car, as we picked a path through the boulders are we headed higher up the cwm. Gambit climb was brilliant, perfect big boot route and even though I went a little off route on the second pitch, the best climbing was higher on pitch four and five anyway. Good belay ledges and gear, meant I could concentrate on Adam and Piers following up. We reached the top of the route on the upper section of Parsons Arete a 2/3 scramble which we then descended back down to the base of the crag. A steak pie and choc digestives later, we headed back to the car just as the dark set in.

Adam at Castle Inn Quarry

Here comes the wind, clip quick.

     Waking to a drizzly morning in Llanberis, we discussed our options whilst looking at the forecasts, opting for the North coast, and Castle Inn Quarry. I’d ever climbed at any of the crags along the North coast, and it was really good. I still couldn’t quite get my head around bolt clipping in Wales in December. The grey clouds and rain were approaching from the south, as we watched the blanket of grey getting near, it always seemed to stop just before us. The high winds made the climbing feel insure, like being on a winter route in Scotland, waiting for the gusts to ease before making the next move. It was to be last days climbing as the rain and wind set in for the next few days and trips to Pete’s Eats and the Beacon filled the time. Heres hoping for the snow coming soon though, I’m starting to get a twitch.