Great Wolfrey, a crag lost on the moors

I’ve always been keen on exploring new crags, and although Great Wolfrey is located close to where I used to live in Pateley Bridge, its isolation and hefty walk in always meant I overlooked and flicked past it in the guide. The new YMC Gritstone Guide has again provided the motivation, thanks to cracking pictures and topos, and describes the crag as the most ‘out there’ crag in Yorkshire. They’re certainly right there, as the nearby Grimwith Reservoir is out of view and nearby landmark of Simon’s Seat is blocked from view as it nestles a top the moor.

We can finally see the crag - Great Wolfrey

Jack and Bob were keen for an early start as we donned the pads, the approach passed quickly, taking about an hour until the crag came into view. The friction was top notch, and the rock was similar to Slipstones, a nice silver and finely grained. It was quite scritty to touch, making even the most positive footholds precarious.

Jack climbing the layback crack of Autumn Gold, VS.

Me on Moon Madness E1 6b

We started at the left end of the crag which at only 6m in height felt plenty high enough, getting used to committing to the rock. A good laybacking VS crack was followed by a couple of routes either side of an arete, which provided brilliant climbing and required some thought finding footholds, as for once on grit, smearing was pretty much out the question.

Jack eyed up the right arete of the same block, although it didn’t seem to be in the guide, it looked like good moves. On closer inspection the first few moves linked well but there are a lack of apparent footholds to unlock the upper section. After a slap up the arete and a left sidepull, a high left foot and hooked toe allowed a poor crimp high on the face to be gained. I stalled a few times on the upper section which gained a slopey shelf and positive crimp before a bit of a lunge on poor feet reached a welcomed good hold and easier moves to the top. Bob f6b+. It probably has been climbed before but we can’t find any record anywhere.

Jack on the first ascent?? of Bob f6b+

Reaching the welcome jug at the top of Bob f6b+

Moving along the crag, some of the problems have slightly poorer landings and get higher. There are some brilliant walls and aretes around 9m in height that look like they have brilliant climbing on them and surprisingly good landings in some cases. These routes stretch up to E4-6, and would definitely be worth going back for when I can climb a bit harder. There are also some cracking blocks below the main edge with some great problems and slopey finishes onto heather covered tops.

Me on the Heather Top boulder

I can’t recommend the crag enough, the quality of the grit is top, different to the nearby coarseness of the Barden Fell crags. The walk in isn’t as bad as you’d think and if you want to get away from the crowds, Great Wolfrey is definitely the place to go, chances are you’ll be the only people there. Revel in its solitude and mystery whilst admiring all the quality lines there that will inspire you to go back for more.