I have headed down to North Wales for the week to become more familiar with some crags and obviously to go climbing. We drove to Tremadog to climb at the popular Craig Bwlch y Moch, however today the crag was not so popular as we were greeted by a thick band of rain as we drove down Gwynant valley. Good job Eric's cafe was open, as we enjoyed a mug of tea and weighed up our options.
The cloud began to brighten and we were growing impatient so we donned our waterproofs and walked along the road toward the top end of the crag. I guided James and Piers up Cracked Slab in the wet, taking advantage of its big belays, good gear and endless possibilities for teaching. We followed this up as James led up Boo Boo and the upper slabs were beginning to dry in the wind. I organised a stacked abseil as we retrieved the bags and headed for lunch.
The wind continued to dry the buttresses and the sun was beginning to break through the clouds. We walked up to Shadrach Buttress. Piers led off up Grim Wall and a rising traverse to a roomy ledge beneath the upper wall. James and I followed and I started racking up for the upper pitch climbing the steep rib above. It was a great pitch and the route deserves its' two stars, never desperate climbing but a little tricky to read because of so many holds at different angles.
We followed this up each picking a pitch of The Brothers to lead. I had already lead Shadrach before so James had the top pitch, Piers the middle and I got to enjoy the wide crack at the base. The Brothers took in three good pitches with a balancy traverse in the middle and the class top pitch of Shadrach which James climbed in good style. We definitely made a good shout with the weather and it cleared up to be a great day craging.
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