Slate and sun in North Wales

A week had passed since my grit bouldering and my fingertips had just about recovered before a quick trip to North Wales. The forecast was looking kind to us, however the wet weather before the trip meant decisions were already made for us, our best chance of dry rock on the Monday was in the Llanberis slate quarries.

Me on 'Looning the tube'.

I had only visited the quarries on few previous trips, and the maze of paths, tunnels and levels mean I still find locating areas and routes pretty tricky. Luckily I had Matty with me, who had spent 5 days climbing in the quarries  last summer, so was the perfect guide for the day. The quarries have an airy feel to them, the old steel structures and dilapidated miners huts, a previous hive of industry have now left huge holes in the ground, and endless spoils of slate which eventually blend into the mountains of Snowdonia.

We headed to Australia towards the top of the quarries, with a couple of routes up there on Matty's slate ticklist. A dark sky threatened above but it was the gusting wind trying to push us of balance on the delicate slab climbing. Matty headed off first climbing 'Looning the tube' in good style and little faff, despite being one of his first leads of the year. I quickly followed, enjoying the moves across the to the chain away from the safety of a single bolt, before heading up the groove to the top

Matty on 'Goose Creature'

Adjacent to 'Looning the tube', a pair of bolts indicated the only gear up a blanker looking slab with thin edges leading a route, 'Goose Creature' up the slab. I thought I'd give it a go, as the unprotected 7m up to the first bolt looked straightforward and it's really safe once you get there. The climbing went smoothly, clipping the first and second bolts in quick succession, I was stumped at the crux moves past the second bolt. After several goes of trying the moves in various positions, most felt insecure and off balance, I found the sequence for me via a big rock over and two finger edge, allowing a thin edge to be reached. Slightly easier climbing followed but with no more gear, composure was needed for a fluttery top out.

Me on 'Goose Creature'

With the crags in the pass still wet we headed round to Tremadog, out the mountains, dries quick and will soak up any sunshine that's going. We got sunshine in abundance, strong rays and light breeze meant the factor 50 was definitely going on. As it was Matty's first trip to Tremadog, Christmas Curry was the first route of the day. I quickly linked the first two pitches, leaving Matty to enjoy the quality top pitch out of the trees and into the sunshine.

Me starting up the main pitch of Christmas Curry

We followed up with the classic One Step in the Clouds. This route is deserving of its classic status, as it meanders up the impressive Vector buttress providing brilliant positions. The exposure was ace as I stepped across the hanging slab with the buttress dropping away into the trees beneath.

The sun continued to beam onto the rock as I climbed out of the trees on the first pitch of Shadrach, another classic, with a thrutchy chimney to begin with and gain the slab above. A class second pitch followed with a precarious step of a pedestal providing the crux unlocking the upper section of the route.     

Matty seconding the first pitch of Shadrach

Unfortunately the trip was cut short as Matty didn't feel too good, obviously couldn't hack van life. Definitely wasn't my cooking that's for sure and I guess the crags aren't going anywhere so I will be back soon for sure.