Point Five Gully, staying focused in the fast lane

After such a cracking weekend on the Ben last weekend, and my motivation for winter climbing at an all time high, I've been buzzing all week, another trip up north was swiftly planned to make the most of the conditions in the mountains.

Following tracks low in Observatory Gully

Similarly to last week, Piers and I had planned to camp up at the CIC hut, to cut out the slog from the North Face car park. Arriving late on Thursday night, driving straight after work, we were greeted by rain in Fort William, and opted to sleep in the car and get an early start the following morning. Walking up to the hut through drizzle, sleet and finally snow, meant we were pretty damp and a North Easterly wind didn't help as we got the tent up and had a quick brew. The snow level was down to just below the hut but the winds meant a lot of new snow collected across the mountain. We battled through powder up the approach gully, planning to get onto Tower Ridge. Time was going to be tight anyway, but a lot of powder along the early sections of the ridge slowed progress. Not being able to see what you're actually standing on always makes things pretty interesting, as does part of the corniced edge collapsing as you've just passed along. Things just didn't feel right and the fact it had just started snowing didn't help matters. So we bailed back to the tent and sat out the snow, caught up on some sleep and rested.

A snowy night at the CIC

I awoke in the night to the sound of more tent pegs being hammered in, we had neighbours. Opening the door in the morning to no wind, blue skies and the North face of Ben Nevis in top condition is quite something. Our little patch of snow covered grass had become like a festival field as another six tents had squeezed on the small area. Teams were already walking up from the hut approaching their objectives, we had only one, Point Five Gully.

Approaching Point Five Gully in great condition

We could see the route from the tent, it looked in brilliant condition. On the approach, we turned the bottom of the Douglas Boulder to spot another team already heading towards the base of the route. To be fair, they made life a lot easier breaking trail through the powder up to the route. We crossed patches of graupel, a type of snow that almost looks like balls of polystyrene. These areas of snow are usually pretty unstable and are an indicator of poor snow conditions. We discussed our options, the route being quite steep shouldn't have collected much snow and it had a hold on me, I had wanted to climb it for so long, so we continued. The team ahead were taking their time and ended setting off at the same time as myself, with two other parties behind getting impatient.

Despite the route being busy, ropes and people everywhere, the climbing was brilliant. I'm not a fan of people watching me climb, other than my belayer of course, I normally get distracted and worry about what people think of me. This time I was totally focused on the task at hand, enjoying this awesome route. Once I had swung that first axe, I was oblivious to all of the other people watching me up that first pitch. The ice was top notch, sinker placements and readily took screws as I headed to the first belay.

The first two pitches went really quickly, smooth climbing with great placements, the route was becoming quite stepped. Two other teams were climbing close to us becoming pretty bunched, which wasn't good news as the ice was becoming more brittle, big chunks breaking off unexpectedly. One second came up with a bloody nose, I think he'd caught himself with his adze, and the leader of the third team had pushed through and had been hit badly with a large chunk out his nose, blood down his face, he looked a bit of a mess. He approached the belay all guns blazing, looking for someone to blame, to which I replied, "blame us all." Climbing one of the most popular routes on the mountain on a Saturday, I guess it was to be expected. Even a 5:30am start from the hut couldn't escape the queues.

I wanted out, and headed off up the Rogue pitch not to be put down by all this negativity. I was here to enjoy the climbing on a quality route. The pitch was great, bulging at the top, I could definitely feel the steepness but solid placements and good bridging saw me pull onto the snow slope above.

I headed up the snow slope for maybe 25m, clipping one suspect peg in the side wall along the way, eyes on a good ice bulge ahead for a solid belay. 5 metres short, the rope went tight, I couldn't move, out of rope. Absolutely gutted, and following a bit of bad language about never buying 50m ropes ever again, a bit of slack,   Piers had started climbing. I quickly sorted two screws before he reached the steepening wall and got him on belay.

Piers pulling onto the easier upper slopes

We swung leads and moved together through these top sections as the slopes steepened again towards the imposing cornice. The seemed to get bigger to closer I got, and I picked my spot. There was two foot of fresh powder deposited atop of the existing cornice, as I struggled to cut a hole through it before climbing through and crawling across the plateau to take in the rope for Piers.

Back down and in the tent for 3pm just as the snow began, it didn't stop. The wind picked up as the front passed through, it continued to snow as we watched it build up the side of the tent. Awaking the Sunday morning to find a foot of new snow surrounding the tent, meaning laden slopes and huge cornices higher up the mountain. The avalanche forecast was considerable anyway so we called it quits and headed down, pleased with an ascent of such a classic route.

Chilly face on the summit plateau

Every climber must have objectives and aspirations for their climbing to keep them motivated. Whether it be a route for that day, or a list of climbs to do before you die. Sometimes the blinkers come on, and people become impatient, ignore the weather and take unnecessary risks to climb their desired route. Every now and then this gun hoe attitude is required to pull out the stops to climb the route. I am guilty of it myself, climbing routes that are maybe out of my depth when I have been in a troubled mindset. I think of myself as cautious climber especially in the mountains, and have never rushed to push myself through the winter grades, allowing myself to gain plenty of experience first. And I hope everyone that was in the mountains this weekend are safe.