Clint Crags: Exploring the wild grit.

Having grown up close to Brimham Rocks, gritstone was really the only rock I knew early in my climbing career, from scrambling around, starting to boulder and eventually learning to lead, all was learnt on God’s own rock. Since widening my climbing into the mountains and sea cliffs, climbing on a wider variety of rock types and styles and moving away from gritstone areas I have felt this connection growing weaker over time. Each time I revisited familiar areas I couldn’t quite climb as fluid or produce the right positions and failed to climb problems I had climbed a couple of years previous. 

Matt on the Arete

Now summer has passed, the air is becoming cooler the grit guidebook has reappeared at the top of the pile, flicking through for inspiration, and theres plenty of it. I’ve always loved visiting new crags and the new grit guide is so visual providing a never ending list of problems to try. Surrounding the outstanding crag of Slipstones, a number of smaller crags lie on the nearby moors similar in nature allowing top quality problems to be found just off the radar for those willing to hunt. 

Clint Crags is found beneath Masham Moor overlooking both Leighton and Roundhill Reservoirs. A solitary setting, you are almost guaranteed to be the only climbers at the crag, contrasting with the industrial feel of 100 year old dams in proximity. The crag is compact, with brilliant landings and a bit of scritty rock which is expected at less traveled destinations. A brief warm up on a few problems and getting completely shut down on a couple more that had incredibly tricky starting moves, which meant I lost motivation and couldn’t work the other moves. I moved across the block and found a good line up the arete on the right hand side, with a positive starting layback hold. 

The 'Long Lob'

Lobbing for the pocket

The problem suited me, requiring a long reach between good the start hold and slopey pocket whilst holding the barn door swing. On first appearance the sequence looked easy, but the problem wasn’t giving in that easy, maybe it did warrant its f7a grade. I tried and tried and tried. I seemed to be doing and failing on the same move over and over, putting it down to just not catching the top pocket right, without loosing the swing of the barn door. I’m always one for impatience between problems and attempts, never resting enough or thinking in depth about the sequence I have just tried and how I could change it. 

Jug top

Matching the pocket.

I forced myself to have a break, the first of the afternoon, fifth problem in and after about ten attempts on this one. Shoes off, water out and just chill enjoying the view. Next attempt, launch up for the pocket, latch it, flag my foot to hold the swing and quick hand up to match the slot. Its done, sort the feet, and move up two shelves to a rare jug on the sloped top out. It certainly was the Long Lob, and a cracking problem. This visit has really rekindled the spark that was going out. I love the subtle movements and changes that can unlock the problem, and am now looking forward to the rapidly approaching grit season.

Pinnacle Ridge, Ropes and Meeting new people: A winning combination!

With the autumnal weather moving in, Adam and I headed over to the Lakes on an optimistic forecast, hoping for an overcast day free of rain. Having completed my MIA training a few weeks back, I am more focused than ever to introduce people into climbing and the mountains. We picked Sam, Josh and Rebecca in Ambleside then onwards to Patterdale. Pinnacle Ridge on St. Sunday Crag was our objective. I was the only member of the group to have climbed the ridge before, one of the best scrambles in the Lakes provides great positions on climbing as the ridge narrows and a traverse of the pinnacles leads to the summit slopes. Leading the way on the steep approach, gave enough time to great to know a bit about our new companions before we contoured the hill to the base of the ridge. 

Josh and Rebecca: just chilling!

As we harnessed up Sam jinxed us by putting his waterproof and subsequently the rain came as we geared up. I led up with Rebecca and Josh following on to the base of the ridge, leaving Sam in Adam’s capably hands. After explaining the use of spikes, belays and the ropework, I headed off up the first sections of the ridge. Keeping our ascent fluid we weaved our way up through the blocky ridge, making the climb as direct as possible. Rebecca and Josh climbed really well, following my directions, as we spotted Adam and Sam on the lower sections. The selected belays were really important to keep the scramble flowing, using the appropriate belay for the ground covered as I showed why I had chosen them. 

Adam and Sam on the lower sections

The upper sections of the ridge are guarded by steeper walls and a corner in a bay. We climbed cracks and the corner as a short pitch of roughly 10m to access the pinnacles above. Josh and Rebecca followed with ease, and their previous climbing experience was now transferring into boots and a mountain environment. We traversed across the pinnacles and climbed down the slab leading to the final buttress. The rain had ceased on the lower sections and the lack of breeze meant we were all glad to strip the waterproofs at the top.

Sam descending the slab after the pinnacles

Students: always got their hands in their pockets!

We headed to the summit of St. Sunday Crag and descended down to a breezy Grisedale Tarn. It had been a while since any of us had been on a full mountain day in the Lakes so we climbed the zig zags up the Southern slopes of Dollywagon Pike. We passed a group of mountain bikers and were keen to escape the Helvellyn highway and began our descent of the East Ridge of Nethermost Pike. The initial steep section of the ridge soon eased as we dropped into Nethermost Cove looking up steep slopes towards Striding Edge. A pleasant walk along Grisedale followed, after a quick scout of Eagle Crag, one to head back to in the future. New partnerships formed, the team are really eager to learn and progress their mountain and climbing knowledge, which is perfect for my and their development.

The team heading down into Grisedale; St. Sunday Crag in the background.

Off the beaten trad in the Lakes: Scafell and Goat Crag

Weekends here, cars packed; tent and ropes. To the mountains. We were after shade, more so, my ginger skin was after shade. The weather was looking top, lots of sun and dry mountain crags. A quick escape from work and steady drive to the Lakes followed as people flocked to the mountains. We walked in, camping by Sampson Stones, Great Moss, and I was itching to get on the crags the following day.

Scafell's East Buttress, what a piece of rock!

What we thought was an relatively early start, turned out to be not so early, as we spotted several teams on Scafell's East Buttress as we approached Mickledore at 9am. We moved to the shade of Scafell crag and the popular route of Botterills Slab on the left of the crag. The climbing was superb, smaller holds than I was expecting and quite sustained I reckon, but never desperate. Just really enjoyable climbing on a brilliant crag. We made pretty short work of Botterills and headed back for more, selecting the classic Moss Gill Grooves. Another cracking route, and still in the shade. I looked down to the dots walking up the twisting scree towards Mickledore and Scafell Pike, with the sun beating down on them. 4 pitches up Moss Gill Grooves, we were at the top of the crag, and followed the scramble down Broad Stand to retrieve bags.

Me nearing the top of the main pitch of Botterill's Slab

Piers leading off the first pitch of Moss Ghyll Grooves

Mickledore Grooves was next, on the stunning East Buttress of Scafell, as we followed the shade round. Two long pitches ahead, crossing some impressive territory, steep grooves split by a traverse across an impressive slab. This was probably the best VS route I have ever climbed,  rough clean rock, and interesting climbing kept me throwing some moves as I climbed the long 42m top pitch.

Descending back to Great Moss, I couldn't stop looking back at the crag!

The following day was back down in the valley, slogging through the bracken towards Goat Crag, Borrowdale. Facing North-East and suffering from a lot of seepage from vegetation above, the crag takes a while to dry out. It was my first time here, and initially the crag looks really dirty, covered in moss and lichen but on closer inspection the holds and edges are mostly clean. Rock, paper, scissors for first pitch of the classic DDT. Tom won, racked up and set off up the groove following it to its top. I followed, surprised at how good the climbing was, with sustained interest and good gear, to reach a root ledge above. Stepping out from the ledge across the wall, I was able to gain a groove above, which lead across a mossy slab and the top of a cracking route. After a full length abseil to the deck, we headed round to the Hard Rock classis, Praying Mantis.

Tom bridging up the first pitch of DDT

Stepping out from the belay starting Pitch 2 of DDT

The route heads up a crux corner crack before weaving through some impressive territory by a couple of traverses. Tom won the scissors again, and I'm glad he did as I seconded up the pitch. The route is definitely showing more signs of climbers, the polished crack and lack of footholds meant an aggressive approach was needed. The following 2 pitches weaved across steeper ground as I was landed with fourth pitch to the top, picking my way through, following a faint crack which looked just like a drainage line, to gain mossy slabs above. The moss is just superficial, most of the holds are clean, providing really good moves and positions. The crag is definitely higher than it looks on the approach. It just needs a bit more traffic, which isn't helped by its aspect. Next time there's a dry spell its definitely worth checking out.

Tom on the crux crack of Praying Mantis

Hard Rock and Rescues on Cloggy

I had never climbed on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu otherwise known as Cloggy before, but had heard of its aura, it's walls stacked with climbing history, positioned high within the Welsh mountains. I'd seen lots of pictures online, in guides and magazines, you can't fail to notice it's dominance driving into Llanberis. After getting pretty scorched on the cliffs at Gogarth, Piers and I headed back into the mountains and an early night before the slog up the Snowdon path to reach the crag. The crag looked stunning and became even more impressive the closer we got. I was relieved to see the buttresses covered in shade as the sun moved round, no sun burn for me today.

The stunning Clogwyn Du'r Arddu

We skirted round Llyn Du'r Arddu to access the base of the West buttress, our route the classic Great Bow Combination from Hard Rock. From below the buttress looked huge, but broke down into 5 pitches. I set off on the first 45m pitch, climbing a brilliant cracked groove till the cracks end where a few bolder moves up a rib lead to good sized belay ledge. The rock was solid and quite rough, with bomber gear.

Piers arranging gear on Pitch 2

Piers continued up the rib above setting up a belay below the crux traverse to access the slabs above. I stepped up from the stance to place a high first runner then started the traverse along a break with poor feet, which was surprisingly pumpy with little protection in sight. I rocked up onto a ledge at the end of the break, placed a solid wire, and headed up to the belay above.

Now for Piers to second the pitch, who also had our rucksack of shoes and water to just walk off after the route. The traverse was just as bold for Piers to second as there was little gear for me to place on the lead. After the start a step up with small holds and smear enabled the break to be reached. I had a good view of Piers crossing to this point, I was careful not to pull the ropes too tight to pull him off the wall. These moves were pretty tough, and once all other sequences were ruled out Piers committed to the move. But then he was off! I thought he had made the move. The ropes went slack, as he pendulums across onto the wall below out of my view, swiftly followed by the shock as the ropes take the weight. I shouted down to him,  he was ok. Luckily able to climb the few metres of wall to regain the end of the traverse, took a minute and climbed up to me. He had skinned the knuckles and cut his knee, but was keen to continue after a quick tape up.

The end of the traverse on Pitch 3

Piers swiftly dispatched the fourth pitch up a cracked slab to an impressive exposed stance on the edge of the slab. I had noticed climbers across on the Eastern Terrace shouting in our direction as Piers climbed his pitch. As Piers set up his belay, he was talking to someone else, before shouting down to me: 'you're going to love this.'

We chatted about what was going on as I climbed the pitch. Turns out a team were stuck, or were unable to progress further on their route; Longland's Climb, a classic VS with a sting in it's tail, as described in the guide, an intimidating 4c pitch blocking access to the top of the climb. We were unable to reach Yohan and partner from our present position with a gully and a buttress blocking the way. We told Yohan we needed to complete our route then abseil down if we were to provide any assistance.

Looking back down Pitch 3

We completed our route, which was cracking. It had been a while since I'd climbed on the mountain rock of North Wales, and remembered how much I love it. However my mind was now focused on how best to help the stuck climbers. Trying to locate the top of a route from the top of a complex crag full of gullies and pinnacles is a right pain, especially seen as it was my first time at the cliff. Orientating the guidebook photo, to try and match up which way to head proved useful, as did climbers from the other buttress shouting directions to us.

Piers at the stance at the top of Pitch 4

We hunted down a large block to use as an anchor and I carefully started to abseil down the top section of a gully, ropes over my shoulder and paying close attention to where I place my feet, not wanting to dislodge any rocks onto the crag below. I moved down and around a corner shouting to the party beneath me. I located them, some 10m below the pinnacle I was now sat on. They sounded surprised that I was there, I guess it had been about an hour and a half since we first made contact with them. I was lucky that the rope was just long enough to reach down beneath me. I made a belay at my position to back up my abseil rope as Yohan tied into the other ends of my rope. I gave him a tight top rope up this tricky section of the route as his partner belayed him from below. He was so relieved to reach a ledge just below me, the previous few moves had been a battle for him. I kept him on a rope until he had placed 3 solid runners as he moved onto the easier climbing above. He definitely looked pretty shaky and then let on that this was only his fourth outdoor lead! Hats off to him for his enthusiasm but he was definitely out of his depth on this route, and obviously did not no how to sort himself out in this situation.

I carefully climbed back up my ropes to reach Piers at my block belay. After stuffing gear into our bags it was time to make tracks and drive home. Walking out down the path I kept almost tripping over my feet as I was looking back around at the magnificent piece of rock behind me. Matching lines in the guide up with the features on the rock, I just wanted to climb more. I can't wait to go back again!

Cloggy - What a crag!

Dreaming above the sea at Gogarth

I was counting down the days left at work, stoked to see the high pressure hanging around for my days off at the weekend. Back down to Wales again, it was becoming like a second home exploring places I'd never been over the previous couple months. This time though, we bypassed the mountains and headed straight to Holyhead and the sea cliffs at Gogarth. One route on my mind; A Dream of White Horses. I have wanted to do this route for so long, since first picking up a friends North Wales Rock, years before I'd even put a rock shoe on in Wales, let alone climbed at Gogarth.

Me seconding up the first pitch of 'Dream'

Everything had come together, the late evening light meant a quick scope of the crag. I was in total awe of the zawn, looking across to the cliff from the promontory, it looked really steep with few features, an almost blank piece of rock. Walking back to the van for an early night, I had butterfly's in my stomach, I'm pretty sure it was excitement rather than nervousness. Tomorrow I was going to climb Dream!

Piers leading off on the first pitch

We had a reasonably early start hoping to beat the weekend rush in top notch weather, and were the first team to abseil down to the base of the route. Abseiling down the cliff, the sheet of rock was revealing its secrets; it's slabby angle, flakes, cracks and holds covered the wall. We stopped at the right end of a ledge, the incoming tide covering the first few metres of the climb. Piers began on the first pitch, his first time on the sea cliffs, following a crackline of good gear and holds before moving across to the relative comfort of a stance. I followed, getting into the flow of the climbing having only done a few routes on the cliffs myself.

Me leading off on the second pitch

The second pitch followed no distinct features as I traversed directly across the slab, delicately moving between opposing side pulls and thin gear until I reached the main crack line of Wen running the height of the cliff. Without realising I had gained some height and had set up a belay slightly higher up. This wasn't a problem until Piers was about to set off onto the third pitch.

Piers happy to be across the bold start of Pitch 3

Piers cruising the rest of the third pitch

The third pitch followed a diagonal flake up the wall, but from our position the flake was about 4 metres away, meaning Piers had to make a higher traverse line to get back on route. It was a bold few moves, following small holds and poor feet, a sterling effort by Piers, who then cruised the rest of the pitch.
 
One more pitch to go. The long traverse around the curving wall above the arch in the zawn. The holds were positive and gear good as I made progress across the wall. I was concentrating really hard at getting the rope work spot on making sure Piers was protected when he followed the pitch. The climbing was never desperate and the exposure was ace, I managed a few glances down when moving my feet only to be distracted by sea kayakers paddling through the arch directly beneath me. I reached the end of the traverse followed by a short groove to complete the pitch and the Dream.

Me heading off on the traverse of the last pitch

Piers in a sea of rock on the fourth pitch

I was so pleased to have climbed the route after trying to fit it in last year with no luck. This time everything had come together. The climbing is really good, but it is the positions and situation that make it what it is.
After a quick break and a top up of sun cream we retrieved our abseil rope and relocated to the promontory on the front of the zawn, abseiling in Britomartis, another three star HVS, but a route of completely different character.

Piers seconding the first pitch of Britomartis with kayakers looking on

The tide was low as I climbed down from the belay ledge and traversed around the corner to gain access to the steep front face. An initial crack led to a groove surrounded by good holds up the face. The bottom felt desperate and the route felt a very different proposition to 'Dream' as the rock felt very soapy, I was forever chalking up my hands. The higher I got the less desperate the climbing which was good news for my arms as I reached a small stance above. Piers had an audience of sea kayakers who watched, took photos and were probably wondering what we were up to. I was glad to hear Piers was pumped as well once we squeezed onto our hanging belay. Another traverse and a small groove lead to the top and the end of another top route.

Squashed on the belay ledge of Britomartis

What a day, the heat was definitely getting to me now as we headed back to the van. Ice creams in Holyhead and back to the mountains.

Stunning day at the sea cliffs

Routing and ridging in Snowdonia

With Adam's ML assessment in a few weeks and having just booked my MIA training, we headed down to Wales for a bit of a navigation refresher. The weather was looking unsettled with low cloud and showers forecast, perfect for our aims. Of course the rack and ropes were chucked into the van as well.

Adam testing his trousers on the Cannon

Low cloud covered the upper sections of the Tryfan, as the North Ridge loomed above, we picked our way up the ridge keeping as direct as possible. The cloud lifted as we climbed higher and enveloped us on the summit with a quick step across Adam and Eve, we descended in a heavy shower to the col and bottom of Bristly Ridge.

Adam jumping onto Eve

A wet and eerie scramble followed, weaving through the pinnacles of the ridge with cloud blowing around us. It was Adams first experiences of Welsh scrambling and rather than continuing across the popular Glyders, we headed East to Y Foel Goch pacing and timing legs across the boggy undulating ground.

Leading the way up Bristly Ridge

Following a swift walk along the valley to up the energy levels at the van, we swapped our map and compass for rack and ropes. We made short work up the Direct Route of Milestone Buttress requiring precise footwork on the glassy holds. A beauty sunset and red sky over Llyn Ogwen was promising sunshine the following day.

Sunset over Llyn Ogwen

It was quite like the previous evening had predicted, but the blanket cloud base at 600m was perfect for us, as long as it didn't rain. A buffeting wind made walking strenuous as we approached the top of Pen Yr Ole Wen. We headed across the Carneddau, Adam hoping to catch a glimpse of the ponies, however the 10m visibility had different ideas. Bearings, timing and pacing were the order of the day as we covered ground to Carnedd Llewelyn, Yr Elen and Foel Grach. The conditions were spot on for us, the rain held off and the only moisture was from walking in the clouds all day. No ponies for us though, the nearest we got was several piles of poo.

Descending off Carnedd Llewelyn

We awoke to a blue sky and sunshine after a few beers at Plas-y-Brenin and a top lecture from Adam Harmer on his paddling trip to Peru. Achey knees and sun lead us to the conclusion that little learning would take place in the hills in comparison to the previous day. So back to Ogwen, and the hordes on Idwal Slabs. Adam had only done 2 multipitch climbs before, but cruised up the pitches of Tennis Shoe, as we finished the 6 pitch route a couple hours later. The sun was beginning to come round onto the slabs and my skin was feeling it, it's always sunny on a dodgy forecast when I forget to take sun cream. We were lucky not having to queue as we continued up the popular Lazurus with a brilliant second pitch to top off a cracking few days in the mountains again. I better leave my sun cream at home more often.

Setting off on Pitch 5 of Tennis Shoe

Me leading off in the reflection of Adam's glasses

Adam following up Pitch 4 of Tennis Shoe

Slate and sun in North Wales

A week had passed since my grit bouldering and my fingertips had just about recovered before a quick trip to North Wales. The forecast was looking kind to us, however the wet weather before the trip meant decisions were already made for us, our best chance of dry rock on the Monday was in the Llanberis slate quarries.

Me on 'Looning the tube'.

I had only visited the quarries on few previous trips, and the maze of paths, tunnels and levels mean I still find locating areas and routes pretty tricky. Luckily I had Matty with me, who had spent 5 days climbing in the quarries  last summer, so was the perfect guide for the day. The quarries have an airy feel to them, the old steel structures and dilapidated miners huts, a previous hive of industry have now left huge holes in the ground, and endless spoils of slate which eventually blend into the mountains of Snowdonia.

We headed to Australia towards the top of the quarries, with a couple of routes up there on Matty's slate ticklist. A dark sky threatened above but it was the gusting wind trying to push us of balance on the delicate slab climbing. Matty headed off first climbing 'Looning the tube' in good style and little faff, despite being one of his first leads of the year. I quickly followed, enjoying the moves across the to the chain away from the safety of a single bolt, before heading up the groove to the top

Matty on 'Goose Creature'

Adjacent to 'Looning the tube', a pair of bolts indicated the only gear up a blanker looking slab with thin edges leading a route, 'Goose Creature' up the slab. I thought I'd give it a go, as the unprotected 7m up to the first bolt looked straightforward and it's really safe once you get there. The climbing went smoothly, clipping the first and second bolts in quick succession, I was stumped at the crux moves past the second bolt. After several goes of trying the moves in various positions, most felt insecure and off balance, I found the sequence for me via a big rock over and two finger edge, allowing a thin edge to be reached. Slightly easier climbing followed but with no more gear, composure was needed for a fluttery top out.

Me on 'Goose Creature'

With the crags in the pass still wet we headed round to Tremadog, out the mountains, dries quick and will soak up any sunshine that's going. We got sunshine in abundance, strong rays and light breeze meant the factor 50 was definitely going on. As it was Matty's first trip to Tremadog, Christmas Curry was the first route of the day. I quickly linked the first two pitches, leaving Matty to enjoy the quality top pitch out of the trees and into the sunshine.

Me starting up the main pitch of Christmas Curry

We followed up with the classic One Step in the Clouds. This route is deserving of its classic status, as it meanders up the impressive Vector buttress providing brilliant positions. The exposure was ace as I stepped across the hanging slab with the buttress dropping away into the trees beneath.

The sun continued to beam onto the rock as I climbed out of the trees on the first pitch of Shadrach, another classic, with a thrutchy chimney to begin with and gain the slab above. A class second pitch followed with a precarious step of a pedestal providing the crux unlocking the upper section of the route.     

Matty seconding the first pitch of Shadrach

Unfortunately the trip was cut short as Matty didn't feel too good, obviously couldn't hack van life. Definitely wasn't my cooking that's for sure and I guess the crags aren't going anywhere so I will be back soon for sure.